Maxim Myakishev, Richmond 98
šThe article written at the very beginning of ths gives reminiscence
of the remnantsš of oldš cultural being at the same time a short pictureš
(essay) of its long history, destroyed in 1920š thšš by the storm of the city,
putting an end toš emirate and opening the new sorrowful page in theš history
of this stronghold of Islam. Contains alsoš the opinion of a specialist
in the field of Eastern art on the Future fate of the Old city.
š
šššššš Hurry to the city of happiness
ššššššššššš - to Bukhara.
šššššš It sends to you its greetings...
ššššššššššš Abu'l Hasan Rudaki.
ššššššššššš (IX-X centuries)
š These lines are more than thousand years old!š They were written by
Abu'l Hasa
n Rudaki well knownš throughout the Middle and Near East who was bornš
near S
amarkand, the most part of his life spent inš Bukhara and died 1050
years ago in
941 p.d.
šIn an anthology "Love poetry of the East"š (Moscow, Pravda, 1988) Rudaki
is described so:š "...an old man in dilapidated (warn) torn clothesš is threading
with a bag on stooped shoulders aš mountain path. His hair is white. Being
old andš blind he (ears) on a t
hick stick. Sometimes hisš toothless mouth is quivered by a sad smile.
Emptyš eyeho
les are covered with trembling wrinkledš eyelids - he had been blinded..."
š Not only by love lyrics is filled the poetryš of this forefather of
classic poetry
of Middleš East, whose tomb I observed in kishlak Rudaki liedš high in
the mountai
ns. Of course not only loveš lyries (?) could fill the poetry and art
of Eastš durin
g the long centuries. The spirit of Islamš penetrated the whole culture
and various a
rt ofš Bukhara for more than 2 thousand years.
š For the first time I visited old Bukhara inš 1836. I was sent by the
Union of
šSoviet Architectsš there to investigated the old architectural monu-
šments and on coming back I published some articlesš (essays) about them
in the "
Architecturalš newspaper".
š How could I guess that no more than in 2š years time I would return
to Buk
hara as an "enemyš of people" sent away from Moscow for an indefiniteš
period, w
hich lasted till 1954 - for 17 yearsš (till after the death of Stalin).
And so it ha
ppened that I got an opportunityš to became closely acquainted to Bukhara
sung by
š Rudaki, Samarkand shining in the rays of poetry ofš Abulhasan Farrukhi
and Taraz
šnot once sung byš classical poets of 10š th -
11 thš centuries. As if myš own fate intended me to pass in a thousand
years
that ancient path that connected those old citiesš like a silk thread
(?)š weavedš b
y Islam.
š In 1937 all the Islamic cult buildings (...)š on Bukhara stood empty
and deserted
šwith gatesš flung open. Though small inhabited houses lookedš far more
inviting one
ševening I subdued to attrac-
štion to step into the empty lifeless yard ofš medrese (?) Miri Arab
(1530-
1536). To the leftš from the gate is supposed the mausoleum (tomb) ofš
sheikh Miri
šArab of Yemen (?) as well as of hisš reigning pupil (?) Ubaidullokhan.
When you
šenterš this place you feel embarrassed by the mysteriousš atmosphere
of some unear
thly world. The like feel-
šing of unexpressed mystery surrounds you whileš reading the Sufi poetry.
So I pas
sed further intoš yard of deserted medrese and entered the galleryš surrounding
it at
šthe level of the second floor.š Before my eyes layed (?) the old yard
paved with
š bricks. I sat down on some old and worn out ragš and verses of immortal
Rud
aki flew to my memory:
ššššššššššššš Bukhara reachesš me again as
ššš the smells ofš jasmine and....
ššššššššššššš come back to meš alive at night
ššššššššššššš by breath ofš wind....
š Nowhere in medrese Miri Arab was seen aš light. Only (?)jakals' (?)wooes
were h
eard fromš behind the old city walls. But suddenly from oneš of many
dark cells a
šwoman in white robe withš sharp cries sprang just into the middle of
theš paved
šyard enlightened by the full moon. An oldš man was running after her.
Being half
šblind heš spread his arms in warn trying to catch his madš daughter.
š Some time later we sat with the old man on aš rag downstairs. His name
was
Ibragim (?)Gafurav.š Once he had been the court(?) architector of theš
Emirs of Bukh
ara surviving the last three of them.š He did not know Russian, neither
did I know
šUzbekš nor Tajik, but as soon as he put before me a heapš of droughts
(design
s) we could perfectly doš without any interpreter. Looking them through
tillš the ver
y dawn I mastered(learned) with his helpš the language of Bukhara builders.
Ibragim
happenedš to be the first in the line of old Bukhara'sš masters, men
of older gener
ation who became myš friends for as long time as they stayed here withš
us until our Lord and
the time took them away oneš by one.
ššššššš ...Look: Time is making oldš everything
ššššššš We thought to be new,
ššššššš But it also is making youngš the old deeds...
ššššššš The night has passed and dawnš has come...
š In the morning we climbed the screw -
šstairš case loud of bricks inside the mighty minaretš Kalian I'll never
forget the ol
d half blind manš listening from the height of minaret to the noisesš
of his native
štown in sorrowful highness.
š The source of his grief brings us back toš 1920 when Bukhara was destroyed
b
y bombing andš taken by storm. The most part of living quartersš were(laid)
in ruin
s, and half broken historicalš monuments proudly exposed their wounds
among has-
štily built tiny clay huts. According to data laterš given me by tarikazh,
Kary Ahma
t at the end ofš 1920 was registered, everything ruined duringš (while)
overthrowing
of emirate. On the territoryš of 27 guzars laying between Registan and
minaretš Kalia
n on the area of 47 tanabs(less then 0.1 km2)š where main destructions
took place
were demolishedš 583 living apartments, 850 shops and stalls, donkey
stables, 38 (?)backeries and
š9 Islamic cultš buildings their floor space came up to 170 000š giaz
half of them
šbelonged to vakufs (mostly cultš buildings)over 2 quarter to emire (administrativeš
buil
dings, shops) and the last quarter wereš private property.
š So Bukhara when I came there reminded a beg-
šgar in an old ragged down. The old wall surround-
šing it was broken in many places. All its 11 gatesš grew decrepit and
crooked an
d stood wide open...š Of course during 17 years that had been passedš
since the
storm some repairs were made: here andš there the holes from shells
in architectural
monu-
šments were puttied with clay. Bukharian buildersš also (?)relaid the
upper part of mi
naret Kalianš (but only 3 circles instead of previous 5) and theš portal
of medrese
šMiri Arab. Some Russian scien-
štists enthusiastically helped to the native onlyš in fixing the (?)fasing
on otherš m
onuments.
š The new powers pulled down some old buildingsš of Registan and in their
place
šerected the newš ones: the theatre, prison, the teacher college,š some
living houses
šfor teachers. Behind the cityš walls was built the cotton factory.
š Bukhara was considered by them to be theš stronghold of Eastern (?)desports
and
šreaction onš the only reason that generations of people bornš under feudal
rulers
were still alive and despitethe great role Old Bukhara played in the
struggleš with previous custo
ms. So the powers acted accord ingly.
š In 1937 many of the best representatives ofš progressive intelligent
people were ex
ecuted.š Among them were professorš Abdurauf Futrat,š writers Chopan and
Abdulla
Kadyri (both belongedš to the left wing of radical ??jadaism). Also
wasš killed A.Sai
djenov, an eminent expert in Ancientš history of Bukhara...The old city
became silent,
š was, so to say, brought to its knees. But I feltš under the ashes the
smoldering
šcoals of ??mangal.š So I could not get rid of an urgent question:š "What
forms
the real "spirit of Bukhara" the cityš seemingly forgotten by Got and
half lost by
špeople?"
š AT the time Bukhara seemed to be a place ofš mystery in which life
had stopp
ed in its develop-
šment in the gloomy Middle Ages. But in really itš regressed from the
time of emir
ate. Before 1920š there had been made some steps to the New era. Atš
that period
šin Bukhara were banks and branches ofš foreign trading firms. Bukhara
had active t
radingš connections with large centers of businessš throughout the world
from Mosco
w and Liverpool toš ??Deiping and New York.
The most rema
rkable part of Old Bukhara wasš Arc citadel. At the top of it the palace
ofš ??em
ires had been disposed. At its back side stoodš a small fortress-
prison (zindan). Leaving Arc halfš was ??destructed by our rulers used
zimdan forš d
emonstration of cruelty of emires (some manne-
šquins in heavy chains were placed there). Ofš course there is no need
to justify
old customs. Itš will be enough remember that Arc consisted notš only
of imposing
šhalls for reception foreign am-
šbassadors in the fresh air and enthroning ofš emire. It contained also
a family ??to
mbe whereš had been buried seven sons of Abulfaizkhan (1711-
š1741) killed by the order of their father. Itš reminds of morals and
customs of Eas
tern courts.
š But everyday life of the city, in itsš spiritual life the leading part
belonged to
šreligion.
š Islam, being a religious teaching is also aš special way of life. Its
spiritual roots
šdetermineš the behavior of its adepts in many ways. The rulesš of Koran
through
šsome of them (sunna,shariat) areš interpreted differently by different
groupsš (sufies,
mutazilites, kidarites) lay at the bottomš not only of religions rituals
but also moral s
tan-
šdards, norms of low ethics, philosophy and alsoš psychology of Muslims
not in Ko
ran itself but inš comments to it are strictly ??forbiggen all thešš kinds
of imitative arts which may
lead toš idolarity or humilation of the Creator. Thereforeš it woul(?)d
lead to great
mistakes to study thisš sphere of culture of Muslim peoples forgettingš
their religious
šteaching.
š In spite of that in Islam we may see muchš common to general values
of huma
nity. It confirmsš personal fate of human beings and also respon-
šsibility of one's deeds. It also confirms theš right of property as
an imperscriptable
šon(?)e.š The breach of rights of anybody is considered theš (?)haviessin.
Islam is i
ndifferent to nation,š race and caste. It contains some moral, spiritualš
and even jurid
ical standards and rules, even theš rules of owning property and financial
rules up t
oš rules of taxes paying. All of them suppose main-
štaining of justic throughout the Islam world.š Ideas of rebelli(?)on
always were in it
šconnectedš with moral and psychological conditions and theš Islamic clergyman
often
šthan religious leaders ofš other confessions appeared at the head of
peopleš moveme
nts defending the miserable against theš tyranny.
š If we may speak about the "spirit ofš Bukhara" in the meaning of cultural
inheri
tancesš of Islam we should mention that in folklore asš well as in the
works of cl
assical poets andš thinkers could be found the patterns of different
ancient legends originated someti
mes from Greekš myths or old Bible customs as well as of hinduis-
štic creed, Mongol tales, Christian apocryphas orš heroic epos.
š The c(?)osmological ideas taught in medresesš say that the Earth is
flat and surr
ounded by moun-
štains called Kaf inhabited by half people halfš birds. The Earth is
divided into 7
stripsš (iklims). There exist 7 (?)skyes as well as 7 seasš Muslims (especially
brother
hood Naksh...?) as manyš other peoples respected number 7. All this
shouldš be eva
luated not from the position of science asš "lagging behind progress"
but to my mi
nd underlineš the eternal meaning of myths in mysticalš ceremonies and
rituals and t
heir magic roots whichš we are inclined to estimate as survivals, super-
šstitions and ignorance.
š Especially were famous Muslim celebration ofš Ramasan in Samarkand
and of Kurba
nbairam inš Bukhara. Though They are timed to the ending ofš (?)piligrimage
as a s
acred center of Muslims whereš they address performing some of religiousš
ceremonies
šwe doubt their purely Muslim origin. Onš the contrary there could be
found trace
of an-
šcient, even primitive ???, survived here in theš form of rituals, in
other cases in t
he form ofš poetic legends.š Sheikh Bahaudd
in shakhi Nakshband (1318-
1389)š was considered to be the patron of Bukhara and theš (?)khanate
...